Hyundai Ioniq (EV) 2017-ish 28kWh
Problem: Lots of error lights.
Not working ABS, AEB, SCC, AUTO HOLD
and regenerative braking
OBD error codes C1211, C1360, C1741,
C1211 and C1210.
It's all caused by a bad speed/ABS sensor
In this situatie the right back wheel (C1211).
Quick overview of solution:
Remove wheel > brake caliper > brake disc > hub bearing
Replace ABS/speed sensor on hub bearing
Put everything back with the correct torque.
Article number of sensor: 58980 F2000
Should solve all the errors.
Important - Please use common sense:
only work in dry weather
use a stable underground
wear eye protection
no kid(s) or pet(s) around
don't work under (time) pressure, etc
if this is not possible > visit your local garage for the repair
Required material
Torque wrench with max 130Nm
M21 for wheel nuts (~118 Nm)
M14 for caliper mounting (~88 Nm)
M12 for hub bolts (~54Nm)
Philips screwdriver for brake disc (~5 Nm)
Small flat screwdriver for EPB connector
Car jack to remove wheel
Car stand or block(s) wood/stone (in case the jack fails)
Bricks to block the car from rolling.
Something soft for your knees

Wire brush to remove rust on bolts
Anti-seize lubricant for flat surfaces ONLY.
Optionally: impact driver, angle grinder (with wire brush), tape
Steps:
Park the car on a stable flat surface
Put the car in P-mode and turn it off.
Electronic Brake Park (EPB) should not be engaged this way.
Place some bricks around the other wheels (both sides).
The car will not be able to roll away.
Use the M21 wrench to only loosen all five wheel nuts
But don't remove them yet!
Put the car jack under the correct jack/lift point.
Two metal welded sheets showing two notches
Lift the car until the wheel can spin freely.
If the wheel does not spin free; the EPB might be the cause
Place a car stand or wood/stone block next to the car jack.
This is important - for safety in case the jack fails
Steps continue:
Now remove the wheel bolts and the wheel itself.
Disconnect the EPB sensor by using a small flat screwdriver
Take your time, you don't want to break this.
After that I use tape to close the connectors against dirt
Remove the two caliper mounting bolts (M14)
Because of the EPB and spring (damper) there is limited
space for a torque wrench head. Two adapters and a shortend
M14 socket worked for me at around 10cm length.
Tips: Remove some rust of the edge of the brake disc so
the caliper comes off easier. This might also prevent
damaging the pads.
Protect the brake hose by putting something under the brake
caliper.
A (torque) wrench of 47cm will fit in the wheel well.
Steps continue:
Remove the brake pad by removing the two philips screws
Disconnect the speed/ABS sensor by pressing the metal 'spring'
This should not require force and go easy.
Remove the hub bearing (with cover plate attached) by
removing four M12 bolts. Extension to reach might be needed.
Tap the four bolts of the cover plate to seperate the hub bearing
from the mounting plate. Keep track (or mark) the orientation
of the ABS/speed sensor connector. Should 'point up'.
Clean the edge (with steel brush) between plastic sensor and
hub bearing. After that use flat screw driver to gently create
space all around the edge.
When the old sensor is removed, make sure no dirt gets in
the hub. Check orientation and gently tap the new sensor down
with a piece of wood and a hammer. Be sure to tap different
locations so that the sensor goes down straight. The sensor
should be flush with the hub (no gap).
Now everything can go back.
All torque specs from Hyundai are on dry threads. Do NOT use
grease on bolts/nuts. Wire brush can be used on rusty bolts.
Put cover plate (with mount) together with hub bearing.
Place hub bearing back on car with ~54Nm (four M12 bolts)
Make sure you reconnect the cable to the sensor.
It's important that the mating surfaces between hub and brake
disk are clean. Any dirt can cause a wobble in the wheel.
It's advised to use anti-seize lubrication on the flat surfaces.
Please don't overdo it.
Fix the brake disk with the two philips screws at ~5 Nm.
That's like just 'hand tight' - so not too much.
Putting the brake caliper mount back will be more work.
Fix both bolts with ~88Nm (M14). Make sure you have
extensions to reach with the torque wrench, see also page 1.
Reconnect the EPB connector.
Now again make sure both mating surfaces are clean of dirt,
sand etc. Advised to remove old anti-seize (that is full of sand)
and apply new layer to mating surface of brake disk.
Do NOT apply grease to threads and also NOT on main brake
surface (the part touched by the brake pads).
Put the wheel against the brake disk and use one wheel nut
to keep it in place. Now add the others and tighten them
all by hand.
Next use a torque wrench (M21) and apply a star pattern twice
to get the wheel sit nice flat/flush. Just tight, not to torque yet.
Remove car stand or stone/wood block, lower the car and
remove car jack.
Now apply correct torque (~118Nm) on all the nuts (M21).
Again in a star pattern. You can use a permanent marker on
the nuts to make 100% sure you fixed them all.
If you apply force fast with a torque wrench you can go over
spec, so apply slowly until it clicks.
After ~100km check the wheel nuts again for correct torque.
End:
Don't forget to remove the bricks around the other tires.
Go for a test drive and the errors should clear quickly.
To fully test brakes, during driving put car in N (drive mode)
and brake hard. Car should roll/brake straight.
Brake disk should also show 'clean' metal on brake surface.
It's advised to store the torque wrench under no tension.
Sources:
Hyundai online service manual
www.hioniqae.com
peppermint on youtube (connector)
Royalty Auto Service on youtube (brake job)
24 August 2025 - v1