Op t forum van ocworkbench kwam ik een topic tegen waarin Iggy een methode omschreef hoe je vrij gemakkelijk je Athlon XP kan unlocken. Het lijkt erg veel op de silver paint methode maar een paar dingen zijn anders. Tevens vind ik het erg handig om te weten wat je kan meten om te controleren of het unlocken geslaagd is zonder direct een dode cpu te hebben. Helaas is het in Engels maar dat zal voor de meeste tweakers geen probleem zijn. Wanneer er behoefde is kunnen we het misschien vertalen.
How to unlock AXP without ruining it!
As many people want to cut their bridges in order to change the multi of their CPU (that can be dangerouos task), I decided to write down a simple, fast and secure procedure of unlocking the AXP that will work extremelly well in conjuction with Multi-Lite mod found on these pages.
What you'll need:
Tipex (or wite correction fluid, liquid paper)
Ohmmeter (either analog or digital, here shortly, DMM)
Cotton bud (or a straw, or toothpick)
Deffoger repair paint
I use a kind of small straw, that is sharpened at the end (I actually use the small plastic tube from the cotton bud, ). In this way it acts as a simple writing pen.
Just fill the pits with this self-made pen with a small amount of tipex on it, and while filling them, spread it around in order to keep it as flat as possible.
Any excess can be wiped out with the piece of plastic (or toothpick, never use any sharp edge or metal, it really easy goes off) after drying, making sure that the dots are clean (use a toothpick for cleaning the dots).
Then check with the DMM that there is no contact on the top of the filled pits with any of the writing (AMD, fe, that is connected to GND) on the CPU, to be sure that when applying paint it want short out that bridge.
Connect black(-) test lead of the DMM (in the range of 0-2(5)KOhms) to those writings, and swipe the red(+) test lead over the filled pits. If the resistance is high, you may proceed. If the resistance is low, you will need to reapply Tipex.
Paint is then applied with the other sharpened end of the straw.
I usually make a small (!) blob over the first, third, and fifth bridge, and leave it for a few minutes to dry out.
Then those bridges are checked with the DMM.
They must have resistance from both sides of newly made bridge towards GND (writings!) of around 240 Ohms.
I then paint the remaining two bridges.
If there is any overlap of the paint with any of the first three painted bridges, I make a small cut in that area (using a toothpick, or a scalpel, but you have to be very, very careful with it), so that there is no visible contact remaining.
Again checking with the DMM will reveal success or failure.
After this test has passed, it is important to check that the adjacent bridges are not shorted between themselves with the DMM.
The resistance between the painted bridges is around 480-500 Ohms.
When this test is successfully passed, I proclaim bridge modding a success, and the CPU is ready to be put through MoBos paces...
The defogger paint, as well as Tipex, can be rubbed away easily with a toothpick.
I unlocked very successfully a lot of AXPs, and I have to say that the paint keeps vey well under high CPU temps.
The whole procedure last around 10 minutes (but please do take your time!).
[url="http://www.ocworkbench.com/ocwbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=37&t=000626"]http://www.ocworkbench.com/ocwbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=37&t=000626[/url]
How to unlock AXP without ruining it!
As many people want to cut their bridges in order to change the multi of their CPU (that can be dangerouos task), I decided to write down a simple, fast and secure procedure of unlocking the AXP that will work extremelly well in conjuction with Multi-Lite mod found on these pages.
What you'll need:
Tipex (or wite correction fluid, liquid paper)
Ohmmeter (either analog or digital, here shortly, DMM)
Cotton bud (or a straw, or toothpick)
Deffoger repair paint
I use a kind of small straw, that is sharpened at the end (I actually use the small plastic tube from the cotton bud, ). In this way it acts as a simple writing pen.
Just fill the pits with this self-made pen with a small amount of tipex on it, and while filling them, spread it around in order to keep it as flat as possible.
Any excess can be wiped out with the piece of plastic (or toothpick, never use any sharp edge or metal, it really easy goes off) after drying, making sure that the dots are clean (use a toothpick for cleaning the dots).
Then check with the DMM that there is no contact on the top of the filled pits with any of the writing (AMD, fe, that is connected to GND) on the CPU, to be sure that when applying paint it want short out that bridge.
Connect black(-) test lead of the DMM (in the range of 0-2(5)KOhms) to those writings, and swipe the red(+) test lead over the filled pits. If the resistance is high, you may proceed. If the resistance is low, you will need to reapply Tipex.
Paint is then applied with the other sharpened end of the straw.
I usually make a small (!) blob over the first, third, and fifth bridge, and leave it for a few minutes to dry out.
Then those bridges are checked with the DMM.
They must have resistance from both sides of newly made bridge towards GND (writings!) of around 240 Ohms.
I then paint the remaining two bridges.
If there is any overlap of the paint with any of the first three painted bridges, I make a small cut in that area (using a toothpick, or a scalpel, but you have to be very, very careful with it), so that there is no visible contact remaining.
Again checking with the DMM will reveal success or failure.
After this test has passed, it is important to check that the adjacent bridges are not shorted between themselves with the DMM.
The resistance between the painted bridges is around 480-500 Ohms.
When this test is successfully passed, I proclaim bridge modding a success, and the CPU is ready to be put through MoBos paces...
The defogger paint, as well as Tipex, can be rubbed away easily with a toothpick.
I unlocked very successfully a lot of AXPs, and I have to say that the paint keeps vey well under high CPU temps.
The whole procedure last around 10 minutes (but please do take your time!).
[url="http://www.ocworkbench.com/ocwbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=37&t=000626"]http://www.ocworkbench.com/ocwbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=37&t=000626[/url]
er zijn namelijk igg erg veel topics hierover. 